Having tried most of the new-wave, upmarket Indian restaurants in London (see other reviews), I was fully expecting to be ripped off again — i.e. getting very bland meal at a ridiculous price. The fact that Gymkhana has a Michelin star was another factor that set alarm bells ringing.

But I was wrong. Gymkhana manages to combine gastronomic aspirations with the ability to cook a fine-tasting (and reasonably spicy) curry!

Our starters included a Duck Dosa, Wild Tiger Prawns and their Kasoori Chicken Tikka. The latter was deliciously succulent and generously sized.

I couldn’t resist Suckling Pig Vindaloo as my choice of main course, and I was not disappointed. Others at the table had the Chicken Butter Masala, which was also very good. We followed with desserts that included Rose Kulfi, Kheer and Ras Malai — again all very good.

Of course Gymkhana is expensive (particularly the wines) but you know that before you go there. But the setting is pleasant and the service is first-rate.