Dating from 1954, Agra is one of the oldest Indian restaurants in the UK. It occupiers two adjoining properties in the area known by estate agents as Fitzrovia or, more recently, “NoHo” — presumably having expanded at some stage from a single shop unit.

The decor is slightly tatty, but this shouldn’t put you off. The food is what’s kept this place going for so long. There is a shortish menu of standard north-Indian fare, supplemented by a sheet of “specials”.

The starters include an interesting tandoori-cooked liver, and the Chicken Jalfrezi is a reliable and tasty main course.

The service is efficient and friendly, and it improves with repeat visits as they give a warm welcome to familiar faces.

Apparently Muhammad Ali used to eat at The Agra on trips to London; clearly he had good tastes.