This is one of the latest of the wave of “modern Indian” restaurants to hit London. In terms of the food, I think it is probably one of the best.

We decided to go for the “Selection Menu” – a veritable marathon of 10 dishes, taking around 2 hours to serve.

Apparently the menu changes/evolves constantly so you may not get what I had. We started with Cheese Papad, Kofta Kebab and Bream Papdi. These were really small canapes, but at least there was stomach-space for what was to follow.

The following courses included Orkney Scallop, Achari Dover Sole, Lobster Tikka, Lamb Chop Barra and Shamaji’s Lahori Chicken (the latter being one of their flagship dishes). We finished with a selection of Kulfi lollipops.

The service was very friendly and efficient. But there are two reasons why it can never rank as one of VV’s all-time greats. First, everything is totally mild – a Butter Chicken in any other restaurant would count as spicy compared to these dishes. Secondly, by the standards of any Indian restaurant, it is eye-wateringly expensive (the Selection Menu was £110 per person).

A good place to try if someone else is paying.