This is the fourth (of five) London branches of the Dishoom empire that I have visited, and the vibe is much the same across all the restaurants. This one is large with an Art Deco look, based on the fact that the location used to be part of Barkers department store.

We started with cocktails, which were excellent and modestly priced by London standards. The food menu is (I think) the same for all the Dishooms, so we chose a mixture of known favourites and some new dishes.

The Chilli Chicken starter is always good, being more like a Chinese dish than an Indian one. We also had the Chilli Broccoli Salad and Paneer Rolls – good portions and delicious. Main courses included the familiar Chicken Ruby and a Jackfruit Biryani – the latter being particularly good. Some Chilli Ice Cream ended the feast.

Service is friendly and efficient, and the prices are reasonable. You won’t get anything approaching a hot curry here, but other than that you can’t really go too far wrong in a Dishoom.