This is what retail experts would call a “concept restaurant”. It is described as a Bombay Cafe, supposedly based on a type of fast-food eatery that was popular in that city in the middle part of the twentieth century. When, in a few years time, there’s one of these in every shopping mall in Britain, you can say you read about it here first.
Unless you are in party of six or more you cannot book. But you can turn up at any time of day (including breakfast) to take your seat at a cafe-style table.
The menu is short, and the food is served when it’s ready, so there is no real starter/main course structure. But (based on two visits so far) the dishes are indeed of a high standard. Spicy Lamb Chops have a real kick and Dishoom Calamari has a pleasantly spicy pickle. I also liked the Bombay Sausages and Keema Pau (spicy minced lamb, served with bread).
My favourite is the Chicken Berry Biriani, a succulent concoction served in a clay pot, which you eat with the “Ruby Murray” curry of the day.
Service is friendly and efficient — maybe too efficient — as you could find yourself back out on the street within half an hour. But if you want “curry in a hurry” this is the place to go.