Vindaloo Vic

Definitive Reviews of London’s Indian Restaurants

Vineet Bhatia 5

This is one of the new wave of Indian restaurants (“evolving Indian” as it describes itself) that has very little in common with your average curry house.

Basically that means the food has an Indian theme, but it is in no way spicy and – because this is supposed to be an up-market culinary experience – it is also very expensive.

If you’re not tempted by the 7-course Prestige Menu (£89 per head) you can be a cheapskate (as we were) and go for the A La Carte Menu (£59 per head for three courses).

Our starters (Mango-Tellicherry Pepper Chicken Tikka and Smoke Enclosed Tandoori Salmon) were actually pretty good. And there were also some tasty “amuse bouches” and complimentary poppadoms to get meal under way.

But then the main courses were a big disappointment. The Grilled Duck was exactly what it said; although it had various Indian-themed accompaniments (Mushroom Khichdi, Curry Leaf Foam etc.), it was nothing special and in no way different from the grilled duck you might get anywhere. My dining companion did much less well with the Darjeeling Tea Chicken Grill – two bony pieces of chicken in a nondescript sauce.

The chef, Vineet Bhatia, started his career at the Oberoi hotel chain in India. I have stayed at several of those hotels, and the food was a lot better (and better value) than his offering here. So maybe he should go back to his roots and rediscover what Indian food should taste like.

Two days after visiting this restaurant , I went to Madhu’s in Southall and had a much better Indian meal at less than a third of the price. Enough said.